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Domaine de la Borde



Lees hieronder wat Wink Lorch in haar vorig jaar verschenen boek "Jura Wine" (http://www.winetravelmedia.com) over dit domaine schrijft. 

"Julien Mareschal came to my notice in 2004. In the previous year no less than ten young vignerons set up in the Jura – at 23 years old Julien was one of the youngest and notable in being a complete outsider with no family wine connections. He was from a cereal-growing family and studied agriculture initially but followed up with a winemaking diploma in Dijon and work experience in Burgundy and Bordeaux. He also worked for short spells in the Jura with traditionalist Xavier Reverchon in Poligny and the more modern Pascal Clairet in Arbois. To Julien the appeal of wine was to take an agricultural product right through to a finished consumable. Having decided that he wanted to set himself up in the Jura, with the help of government subsidies he took over 3.5ha of well-tended, mainly 25-year-old vines in some of the best sites of Pupillin, along with leased space for a winery. In year two he took on another hectare, replanting half of it, and later added another hectare. For the first few years, alongside making wine Julien sold some of his grapes and supported himself giving music lessons. His interest in music continues and he organizes regular jazz, folk and wine evenings at his winery.

Unlike some others who set up at the same time, despite inevitable ups and downs Julien is still hanging on. Now with a wife and children, a house, a small purpose-built winery and a tasting room with a view, his wines go from strength to strength, reflecting hard work in the vineyards and careful winemaking. Having worked his vineyards in a reasoned approach from the start, in 2009 he converted half his parcels to either organic or biodynamic growing and has been officially ‘in conversion’ directly to biodynamic viticulture since 2012, helped by his friend and previous teacher in Beaune François Duvivier of Domaines Marquis d’Angerville and Pélican.

Each of Julien’s wines is given a name, either of a particular vineyard plot or something more esoteric. Proportionately, he has a substantial amount of Savagnin – nearly 50% of his holdings, all on grey marl, so it’s no surprise that he uses this versatile variety for a characteristic range of wines. His Savagnin ouillé is called Foudre à Canon, fermented in foudresand bottled a little after a year, and Savagnin is aged sous voile for Vin Jaune and Savagnin Les Ecrins, made from various plots. Under a Vin de France label the Gelées de Novembre is made from Savagnin grown in a particularly windy plot that stays rot-free, enabling the bunches to be left on the vine until the first frost. Honeyed and medium sweet but with excellent acidity, it is a lighter style than his Vin de Paille (40% Savagnin plus equal amounts of Chardonnay and Ploussard). Savagnin is also used for Macvin, which accounts for 10% of sales.

One of the best wines from Domaine de la Borde is Chardonnay Caillot, from a steep south-facing limestone-dominated plot, one of the highest-altitude vineyards in the Jura at nearly 450m. It is more nervy than his Sous la Roche Chardonnay, which is grown on marl. Reds include Ploussard from La Feule, which from 2012 Julien is making without SO2, whereas his other wines receive a small dose. The most recent addition to the range is a Trousseau grown in Sous la Roche.

As many here, somehow Julien manages all the work from vineyards to winery to sales alone, with only part-time help. He sells mainly to private clients in France, but exports to North America and the Far East have reached a quarter of sales. It is a precarious existence, but tasting Julien’s wine in his lovely little tasting room, you feel somehow that he has already become, after only a decade, a worthy part of the Jura wine’s establishment."